There has always been a debate about scrambled eggs within the culinary world. As students, we call scrambled eggs that dry, fried dish that looks like mini pancakes in the texture of an over-cooked potato, and let’s face it, gives no pleasure at all.
It is debated whether you should scramble eggs before frying, or during frying; whether you should season before or after cooking; whether the eggs need extra egg yolks to thicken and so on.
This is how I make it, and this is what it looks like:
If you like creamy, delicious eggs that just about keep their shape on your fork – this is the place to be. Julia Child said the eggs should be whisked with the seasoning before frying, but on this, we disagree. I have to praise Gordon Ramsay’s genius with this – with my little twist on it.
So do not whisk your eggs together. Do not beat them. Do not, under any circumstances, season them. Take three eggs for one person and break them into a sauce pan, preferably with a heavy bottom. No oil. Not a frying pan. A sauce pan. A small one.
So you have your three eggs in a saucepan – add a generous nob of butter to this, and place it on moderate heat, not too high but not low. Take a rubber spatula and stir your eggs, slowly breaking them up. The butter will soon melt and this is where it gets exciting. You should now have a yellow, custard-colour mix that’s very liquid.
Slowly the eggs will start to cook – you will discover small pieces of scrambled eggs. What you have to do now is take it off the heat, stir a little, put it back on the heat, stir a little, take it off… Do not over-scramble, just cook them, stirring constantly. Do not keep your eggs on the heat for too long, otherwise they’ll dry out, but I’m sure you’ll feel when to take them off. The aim is to get a light, creamy texture.
Take it off the heat and stir – when you reach the desired consistency, it’s time to season quickly. Add salt, pepper, some parsley or chives, and, following Chef John’s tip, I also added a pinch of cayenne for a kick. Now! Quickly add a nob of either creme fraiche, like Gordon, or a spoonful of cold double cream, like me (I am a fan of almost runny eggs). Stir this in to stop the cooking and you have nothing left to worry about – your eggs will stop cooking and remain in the perfect shape.
Et voilá! The perfect, creamy scrambled eggs. To this you could add cheese, bacon, mushrooms or anything of your fancy. Serve on crunchy toast.